tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53034932426408785992024-03-19T02:49:13.262-07:00Ellen Christine MillineryEllen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.comBlogger209125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-58317555847761789562021-02-20T10:50:00.000-08:002021-02-20T10:50:49.124-08:00Covid Country<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnthWywUo5P5-ayY3gzXAafAy35MKbvXOYFh9vaOUz7UMEQGMc_Nj7Fo5vJGdOO4e50FU4QR3-4RaZWBGZCQiD0ls3ilRMCmqJgcFmJB548PTmiqHG7_IK71kOyev32g53S43RorUfujiM/s499/Screen+Shot+2017-05-14+at+11.41.14.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="371" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnthWywUo5P5-ayY3gzXAafAy35MKbvXOYFh9vaOUz7UMEQGMc_Nj7Fo5vJGdOO4e50FU4QR3-4RaZWBGZCQiD0ls3ilRMCmqJgcFmJB548PTmiqHG7_IK71kOyev32g53S43RorUfujiM/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-05-14+at+11.41.14.png" /></a></div><br /> Hats in the time of covid have gotten their fair share of empathy in the world of milliners. Those of us who make hats as a commercial venture calmly wait for the next wave of positivity whilst we while away our time in creative refurbishing. We teach, we read, we work in our studios, and we write about the experience. At any moment the world will open once again, and albeit changed, it will be a world where people will once again go to weddings, garden parties, and races and yes, they will need hats. Fanciful hats, to celebrate the opening of the cage door, with color, and plumage that will decry this period we patiently wait out. This time of covid. <p></p><p>Hats are not the enemy, and the creative process has always been medicinal to all who drink at that fountain. Whether your art is cerebral, or physical, walking it through the creative process has always been a panacea. We use our art to measure our ability to cope, our perception of any given circumstance, and our worldview. We use our art to facilitate, to loosen up the knots in our network, to calibrate our own endurance. In this world, imagination knows no boundaries, but for the four walls that encircle and protect us from the dreaded virus. The universe is ours, and from household to household, bits, and pieces of that universe abound. The internet has become the resource tool of the world if you can access broadband. Our libraries and museums have broadened their pathways to acquiring knowledge and allowing access to their treasures. We as a society have landed on our feet sitting before a screen that fills with any image you require. Well, almost any.</p><p>Shaping a hat collection is a calming process. My way is to look at the environment and see what inspires at first and second glance. What nature provides is a wealth of ideas in line and form, and it leaves the rest up to translate. Materials at hand dictate to a certain extent, because of availability. Our normal routes of distribution have altered considerably and Amazon seems to have encroached even upon our world of millinery for the gathering and hunting usually employed in the making of a hat collection. Some purveyors of materials allow limited access, or have slowly folded their tents and left the marketplace. Indomitable is the catchword that will help us all stand at our cutting tables and create. Searching out the ingredients we need, want, crave has become so much a part of the process even online, that sourcing is a sport for some. But then, it always has been.</p><p>Small joys of delving into a forgotten box of whatnot on a shelf, or walking under the spreading leaves of a tree in a park or forest gives back more creative productivity than some would think. The open and shut of covid detention is just that: opening up to many possibilities while being shut down, or in.</p><p>My advice is the same for now, then, or whenever: keep it rolling. Read a book, sketch some ideas, drape some projects. Play with the elements at hand and slowly spread your wings as isolation lifts, and we're back on a semblance of a normal road, open to new possibilities, and happy to have discovered new bits of our own creativity. Not under a microscope, but right on your work table. Art will get us to the next phase.</p>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-25531854079479114742019-10-17T13:38:00.001-07:002019-10-17T13:44:34.808-07:00Unframed on Ellis Island: The Hard Hat Tour<h2 dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-8bc59480-7fff-8809-342d-688bf5df62f7" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 6pt; margin-top: 18pt; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: normal; white-space: pre-wrap;">by Ellen Christine</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="572" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/tidpgaoqQG7JQQZ_M1aypOMFVMdlQB8bXEuxFbb40j1CaAF0FZyR0KmEiA35pbZ6f2TRWU9_D2JBdauhMLozbwe62d2-QmXPOwwsWJ5Mv8e4BRp00ecB4E9nnpryPFYoTwxjCDzC" style="border: none;" width="428" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">She wore her best hat. Her very best hat. The journey across the sea to a new world and a new life in a new country merited that. Uncle Morris was waiting on the other side in New York City where she would begin, but the start of the adventure was all about her hat….</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The symbolism of articles of clothing provides the basis for a reading of entire sweeps of the population. What we wear and why we wear it translates to a language understood by some but not all. What do you bring to a new country when you’re leaving behind the only life you know? Do you bring the practical? Do you bring only the best you own?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Immigrants arriving on our shores first disembarked onto Ellis Island for their medical check-ups. Their status was not yet established but their sense of wonder and trepidation certainly began there. Their possessions would have told that history and would probably have been few but important. The Statue of Liberty beckoned within their line of vision and a new American heritage was born through the cultural phenomenon arriving en masse.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="363" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/k2KW69eS26L3n27WxuADqNsitUHf_3FrFBXWgQo56OpQm--aaj78oEgB3eFiUJdg8cvpka2iBMc_PaXXFNTjJc5zfWjGNdVB70YAG5W8Gg1HcDbarAmJcJq5CaCDDB_xDV4q8hNa" style="border: none;" width="484" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="645" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/Kn8c4q4UMkYCdb2Ym4smCXegiTrH_NDeB4rjp8lo9vnNsBs-KdUbBmsNSTlEj6z3P73wzB-fyAQsD8dEcTHeD6xGUAR2Zi7L_dRE7QfX13yQJQEFb5O_SvuygbNOLonwrs4naNlu" style="border: none;" width="482" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Left behind as a ghostly reminder of millions who passed through these doors, the Ellis Island Immigrant Hospital still stands as testimony to this history. Beyond the empty wards and corridors that once echoed with busy footsteps, the twists of vine and overgrowth of field grass bear the weight of memory of those many souls. Their presence resonated through all the years to follow. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="366" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/4_POXdQ5WB6Ol42oKierH02kY2P1_U1__9x-0NjY4wMhi3ivazobxXmisziP-NCZpj8zRHXV2rKigbMCDHahPGS-lcFewdosbPCI1D0oDXGYU97ukzau_lYti73RuxsJ6H9Swz3Q" style="border: none;" width="487" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="366" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/QjouAc3H0cHZbHDBoqwq2d406fN-vckXho95SuK-TZLNb_EDyItBu6PnNk0vv2iZqQbv6gQ73dbr5EEItgvjp4LBROEJaahD5yibjrXvlV7PjfSmfT6uoJrC2dgQwUcLk9S9LsPX" style="border: none;" width="487" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Befitting a building that stands on a spit of land next to the Statue of Liberty, a French graffiti artist known as JR installed his contribution to the work begun by others of his countrymen: Lafayette in our American Revolution and Bartholdi with his magnificent Lady Liberty. The lifting of that eternal flame now guards the spirits of the millions who came and who are now immortalized in JR’s photographic installation within the Hospital Complex. JR’s public art incorporates historical images of actual doctors, nurses, attendants and patients and are imbued with a sense of purpose and belonging. This exhibit, titled “Unframed Ellis Island,” opened to the public on October 1, 2014.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="361" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fdVdoETy6atgTmaneaOUyYe9zRKuWV_7Vfpu2gUyiAJg4y-Nn9bVvVRTeSAYOH_RFXa-aCJD0CUsv00n-ebuY09sskAeLQrRFW6uoCinq1uyvZAlZ6WtfCblo7k6kWSrVrQCij_q" style="border: none; transform: rotate(3.14rad);" width="481" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="624" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/2PU7nKSOpe2UE352XZrHvvBwkpuNi0VaM8p6uRlr_nEl6rX7Y2DCRXAYFp2YBdB9PmVGqaejjxeB5ZHEKNvbJ6PqVPYuHCrxxs4qjwhKSy9YaRr7eVYo-mntif3NTBr59gAZY47v" style="border: none;" width="469" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Walking through the wings with a sense of living history, one can turn a corner to see oversized photographs of arriving men, women, and children attached to a crumbling wall. Passing through a laundry room, images of those who walked here a century ago are affixed to windows that overlook the Statue of Liberty, calm and tranquil in the bay. Hospital staff locker rooms are enlivened with the images of smiling nurses who welcomed and nurtured here. At every turn, with history reigning supreme, one feels the march of time and a sense of wonder, the awe and respect that should be paid to these souls who forged a new life. The purpose of this installation is perhaps to meld history, architecture, street art, and the inevitable encroachment of time. To me in my hard hat, it was a moment captured in time, a window into both the past and into the present. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Listen closely to the whispers and the chatter of your fellow exhibit-viewers. In an inspiring moment, view the Statue of Liberty as our ancestors, our friends and our new citizens would have seen it--in their best hats. And carrying with them their best hopes and dreams neatly tied in a bundle.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"><img height="580" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TyeUxSrIGfSoa-eernX-X--Z8pYV8IhTdVRoQ5jIjGFSYv-Bw3Jqvaes-xfeu_yXpdqpTYvVIzOESlhv-A97GQ4yO5nql1Wcup9jrYCSrpB4pXFGMbzA-WlEfgjy807UBZYYQlVl" style="border: none;" width="474" /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Reference book: </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; font-style: italic; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Ghosts of Ellis Island.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> A project by JR. Published by Damiani 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Article photographs by Ellen Colon-Lugo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Link to tour: https://www.saveellisisland.org/about-us/blog/item/45-unframed—ellis-island.html</span></div>
<img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/6f81b676-664f-48d9-b903-b9f949c72f9e" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/ed67334b-f6d6-42fb-8c82-2aba59250240" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/844073d5-cdcf-4076-85ca-0ba0c99b26b5" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/d30ad0bc-e0b4-46f6-84e3-d59a10b1abce" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/facdb516-f935-4487-9e4c-67c8386bef94" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/3e9a3454-61e9-4eaa-8690-862886084de3" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/fc783506-7b6b-425c-97a4-c105fecde1ef" /><img src="blob:https://www.blogger.com/b3caf5c4-aeab-4492-b02c-095272b79107" /></h2>
Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-77261431705839077182018-08-24T09:33:00.000-07:002018-08-24T11:08:28.657-07:00<br />
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HAT AS OBJECT AND EXPERIENCE</h2>
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WHAT DO YOU SEE WHEN YOU CLOSE YOUR EYES AND HEAR THE WORD "HAT"?</h4>
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The argument for object as art has been made through the
ages: Decartes, Hussserl, Hegel, Heidegger ruminated and philosophized about
the nature of art and it's "thingly" character. What makes an art
object? Art theory will always touch upon form, context and the nature of an
object, but it is left to the beholder and the artist to define what art is. A
hat is an object, either made as a protective or a decorative thing. Wearable,
and by definition, an object. But elevate its character to a more creative
level and it can be art. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Hats lend an element to the wearer and depend upon
personality, personal style, the fashion of the hat, the world view of the
wearer. In the past, hats denoted not just style but status. They were and
still are a uniform depending upon definition. Geography mandates the shape,
the form and the material. A hairdo limits or includes. In the 1930 photograph
taken by Margaret Bourke-White, not a head was seen without a hat.<br />
<img alt="Image result for garment district hats" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTB-Ecux4wSq7m53GaNjpqYtFDjix3tKN1kUOOXRpcfaBrGncIGcf8qzBR6wC4yLvdRod5B_IHM0fsRELd7AuK_K0J0atwVPHMIgT1rCbU_l6dhCFX55f3ZyBWhYxHb6ydUReclnCYEnI/s400/Hats+in+the+Garment+District.+New+York.+1930.+Photo+by+Margaret+Bourke+White.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<img alt="Hats in the Garment District by Margaret Bourke-White" src="https://granarygallery.com/phpThumb/phpThumb.php?src=https://masterpiece.s3.amazonaws.com/f48f8ad0-d927-4a3d-8776-42a82b2f0ca5.JPG&&h=500" /><br />
This was NY,
in the Garment District and was taken for an article in Fortune Magazine
entitled "Cloak and Suit". Cloak and suit is a good place to start. A hat protects the wearer from the elements, and suits the
framework that the face provides. Or it should. It should flatter and excite.
It should speak volumes about the person, and live not just in the moment, but
carry an element of timelessness .<br />
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In Lussac-les-Chateaux, in Central France, there are 15,000
year old rock drawings depicting people with hats on their heads.<br />
<img src="https://i2.wp.com/www.donsmaps.com/images/head3.gif" /><br />
Hats are part
of the universal language of costume. Who, what, where becomes more easily
translated with something as simple as the right hat. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Historically, we owe a debt of gratitude to St. Clement
somewhere around 750 AD-818 AD. He gingerly placed a piece of carded wool into
his shoe and lo and behold, felt was made! Hatmakers everywhere could now use
that spontaneous discovery to fashion hats to protect the head. Jump 1000 years
ahead to a burgeoning industry in Europe. We, the people, as a colony of Great
Britain became both very important, and very disruptive all because of a hat.
One could almost say that the American Revolution happened because of a hat.
The beaver population of Europe was almost extinct, but we had the in over
here. Beaver skins were the first great American Trade commodity.<img src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7f/Fur_industry-_hat-making%2C_Canadian_voyageurs._%28_1858-_%29.jpg" /><br />
We supplied
Britain with pelts for their hat industry. From 1700-1770 21 million hats made
from beaver pelts were made in Britain and shipped throughout Europe. And so,
to protect this very precious cargo, the Hat Act of 1732 was passed in
Parliament. Limiting the number of workers, apprentices and slaves in the
colonies employed in our own hat industry, this Act was the first rumble of
discontent within the American colonies. We couldn't make our own hats. Imagine
how that went down.<br />
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Hats and wars have always gone hand in hand. The
Revolutionary War may have happened because of a hat. And the Civil War helped
create what is now widely known as the western hat. After the war, as displaced
soldiers found their way across these vast United States, appetites whetted for
adventure and new horizons, they took with them the remnants of their uniforms.
Many a farmer wore basic shaped felts on their heads, the classic floppy style
we all know and love today. Mr. Stetson lent a hand and created his own shape,
loved it so much that he founded a hat empire because of it.<br />
<img alt="Image result for john b stetson" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/ba/Stetson_in_hat.jpg" /></div>
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Military styles always cropped up in female fashion. The hat
was the final accessory to mimic shapes seen in uniforms throughout WWI and II.
But after the war, when lifestyles changed, styles in fashion changed as well.<br />
<img alt="Image result for margaret bourke-white" src="https://timedotcom.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/160602-margaret-bourke-white-01.jpg?quality=85&w=559" /><br />
WWI brought us the suffragettes sometimes tricorne shapes. The undressing of
the 1920's style with the new flapper mentality eliminated the architecture of
the Edwardian era from fashion and substituted Art Deco. WWII brought the ode
to the ration book, and with it, tiny perchy hats. Dubbed "Doll's
Hats" by Elsa Schiaparelli in the late 1930's, while European fashion
houses succumbed to the ravages of the limits imposed upon them by dint of war.
The proportion worked with the reduced yardage now permitted in garments. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After WWII, when America returned home, home was often a
shiny new car. Headroom in the 1950's vehicles was shorter than in vehicles of
the 1930's and 40's. Fedoras became not as de rigeur. Costume had bowed to the
new carefree vision of fashion, with more outdoor living and less indoor life
becoming popular. Hairdos changed. For men, mimicking the pompadours of the
early rockers and rebels was much more important that the color of a new
fedora. And so, we have what we have. Do take history into account, and look
around you. As America grew, New York City blossomed.
We welcomed the felted shapes of the Jewish Community on the Lower East Side.
We celebrated with our ethnic diversity as more and more cultures brought with
them their culture, their joy, and their hats. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Where some of us wear hats for sports, some wear them for
events, or protection, there are those who will always wear them for glamour,
and a certain note of mystery they add to their wardrobe every day. Hats
define, underline and help you to shine in a city that today finds itself often
wearing a uniform of conformity. Since the first Kentucky Derby in 1875, fancy
hats come out of their boxes . Since the Royal Wedding, fascinators have hit
their stride. There is always a new reason to wear a hat to the hatlover.
Hatters and milliners follow this simple recipe, put forth by Cheri Bibi, a
milliner in Paris: Take some straw, felt, velvet, leather Add a healthy helping
of grosgrain Trim with flowers, fruits or anything unusual you may have in hand
Add a zest of know how Throw in a pinch of humor<o:p></o:p></div>
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And you have a hat! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-79337571009893033172018-01-17T12:01:00.002-08:002018-01-17T12:50:15.978-08:00The Best Clown of All<div class="MsoNormal">
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Thank you, Mr. Gelb for starting my New Year with the verismo gift that keeps on giving:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Roberto Alagna, Aleksandra Kurzak and George Gagnidze transforming the Met stage for Pagliacci. Just a few moments before the clown makes his appearance, Sir David McVicar<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and his double-faceted production of Cavalleria Rusticana brings a 1900’s piazza in Italy to life, with Roberto showing us the selfish, vile and obsessive side of Turridu . The set is dark , the mood is dark and Roberto is spot on as the cad in question. The imaginative twist that McVicar gives these two often- paired short pieces is his use of the piazza where both take place. The Old World feel of Cav places us in a different time, a different mentality and practically an alternate universe with faithless love and death as the mirror image themes of both Cav and Pag. Roberto grounds us in the feeling of the place and George, as Alfio , the cuckolded husband, as his anchor.<br />
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Flip the coin and you’re in an ebullient world of color. The piazza <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in Italy is now post WWII. Roberto makes his effervescent entrance atop a travelling troupe’s truck amid a blast of confetti, in blue. The darkness remains in essence, ghosted from the Cav set, as a psychological pall over the piazza.</div>
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George in the meantime has fleshed out the nature of the scene in an inappropriate wig and suit that scream tacky but so work. </div>
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Moritz Junge did a raucous, ebullient set of costumes that reflected a post-war scrabble for travelling<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px;"> entertainers.</span><br />
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George, long known to Met audiences from ( among other roles) his brilliant Scarpia in Tosca must be foul.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He betrays Nedda in his jealousy and carries the bitter end of this two-act opera to fruition.</div>
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Roberto is at his acting and singing apex as Canio.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Adding to the electricity on stage is Aleksandra’s portrayal of Nedda.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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Nedda does it all: she passes the hat (literally), she performs in pantomime and carves out the ingénue with lively<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span> pacing. Aleks grasps the nuance behind the character and gives us an imaginative interpretation of this Jill of all trades.<br />
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Roberto as Canio is something we’ve been waiting for since the interruptus two years ago when he was pulled out of the role and saved the Met’s production of Manon Lescaut. His poignant delivery of one of the most famous arias in opera melts the soul and hammers the heart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The list is very long of all the iconic arias that Roberto has gifted us with and treasured by the entire lyric world. Vesti la Giubba strikes home, with a fervor only Roberto can grant.</div>
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For those of us not so hip on lyric terminology but immersed in the operatic for the intensity that comes with a mammoth stage, costumes that excite, voices that prolong the experience long after the last note dwindles on the airwaves and music that echoes through the ages, Pagliacci per Roberto et Cie. is a must see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bravo, Mr. Gelb, Sir David, Roberto, Aleks, and George along with the euphonics of the Met orchestra and the ever-present talent of the chorus. Long may this clown live in our memories.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir9fLnGqo8ba3oFqOMu0MMc1UTFa38uNV3nvCcLvsFq6HQz7LJWHFGLhgtL2PmO6xhi5bab31H8HZd11UfRml8b8gAGpwJiS6yIt_EigPfEbfXsVg0aZMKgfCUiJY_u3Ci6ymWglKejrd4/s1600/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="194" data-original-width="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir9fLnGqo8ba3oFqOMu0MMc1UTFa38uNV3nvCcLvsFq6HQz7LJWHFGLhgtL2PmO6xhi5bab31H8HZd11UfRml8b8gAGpwJiS6yIt_EigPfEbfXsVg0aZMKgfCUiJY_u3Ci6ymWglKejrd4/s1600/download.jpg" /></a></div>
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Authors/composers:</div>
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Cavalleria Rusticana, Pietro Mascagni</div>
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Pagliacci, Ruggiero Leoncavallo</div>
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Conductor,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nicola Luisotti</div>
Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-26115747203353314002017-11-21T05:40:00.002-08:002017-11-21T05:40:55.441-08:00Don't Wear the Turkey<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsyumqkuIqpJdZ1yDI3YZfbQg4oObSdBBb-l6EMnBk9cB3P5cNOGzLXs8EVb8rrLG2S6ZCznSuxQ16Uu-gr9FYdc9v1ERKyhiC0OhEdNMm-phH5dILTeiztIunY7ZhX-E7Gd2yE6gUff7/s1600/images.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5408837220529356466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRsyumqkuIqpJdZ1yDI3YZfbQg4oObSdBBb-l6EMnBk9cB3P5cNOGzLXs8EVb8rrLG2S6ZCznSuxQ16Uu-gr9FYdc9v1ERKyhiC0OhEdNMm-phH5dILTeiztIunY7ZhX-E7Gd2yE6gUff7/s320/images.jpeg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 135px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 113px;" /></a><br />
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The post-Thanksgiving stupor, plus the vast expanse of a long weekend, may make you feel like shopping. The mall rats will be trolling this weekend, off to the big box stores for bargains, to buy things so important they'll be forgotten or broken by next year. Ah, the joys of the holidays in the States.<br />
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Think, instead, of the long-term, the investment piece....that gift that brings joy now, and for years to come. An investment piece doesn't have to be come in a little blue box (forgive me, Tiffany's). An investment piece is something that adds value to your life in some way, whether it be a visual documentation of a friendship, or a new hat for that coat you still love. An investment piece should be a timeless thing, based on the long term good feeling it will bring year after year. Stocks and bonds, real estate, jewelry, all familiar faces on the landscape of investment. Translate the word into real meaning, and bring something new to the table. Gift someone a trip to a good tailor, to have a special something made to order. Give a cancer patient a trip to a local milliner, to get a new hat designed just for them. Do a field trip with your best friend's kids, and record it as a gift for the parents.</div>
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Use your imagination, and the stars are the limit. The thanks and the joy resulting will be without definition, and definitely an investment.</div>
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Image courtesy of: www.7gadgets.com</div>
Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-41289045178628267872017-11-19T10:48:00.000-08:002017-11-19T10:48:47.568-08:00St. Catherine's Day<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYZwsnw-NuzkUnBQvbp6bniIlgSaBWKcskslaFmB0qmLXj-Yf97prgBzVE6z0ARZaGZlnNd_8yOD5gQGby0nL5Ij2i_7SPL8-13E47i3FQ97cEBMYI5nqrCi5cJ2sXCOpATv_DhnisEp2g/s1600/SaintCath_front2_72dpi.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5405149305289052770" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYZwsnw-NuzkUnBQvbp6bniIlgSaBWKcskslaFmB0qmLXj-Yf97prgBzVE6z0ARZaGZlnNd_8yOD5gQGby0nL5Ij2i_7SPL8-13E47i3FQ97cEBMYI5nqrCi5cJ2sXCOpATv_DhnisEp2g/s320/SaintCath_front2_72dpi.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 218px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRbt4gZ8aGqiTTlYjvhWrDRsPvcRLM243xoJNWoRTe9lrQlKqY1m-h-XpLL9IElziFRIWLsrvr0UViCvBv6sFBJDHJyhmH8zs8wrJRuzV8yZblAgqQZoyw_Sqvddz-q9Ll50OtUROadNn/s1600/StCath_Back.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5405149299547835794" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRbt4gZ8aGqiTTlYjvhWrDRsPvcRLM243xoJNWoRTe9lrQlKqY1m-h-XpLL9IElziFRIWLsrvr0UViCvBv6sFBJDHJyhmH8zs8wrJRuzV8yZblAgqQZoyw_Sqvddz-q9Ll50OtUROadNn/s320/StCath_Back.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 218px;" /></a><br />
...or week, as we do things here in the States.<br />
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In Paris, on Nov. 26th, all of the single unmarried "hands" working in the fashion houses of Paris don a green and yellow hat in honor of St. Catherine, and to win for themselves, their employers, and their future. What they win is unsure, but this has been a tradition amongst the seamstresses, milliners, tailors and needleworkers of France for decades. The idea is to make a superlative, hysterical, over- the- top- hat, and go for it. There were parades in the past, through the streets of Paris. Now, perhaps, just the fashion show, the hats, and a bow will suffice.</div>
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If you're in Paris for the Fete, email me and let me know what's happening.</div>
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In New York City, The Milliners Guild, a scant two years old, is holding their annual St. Catherine's Day tomorrow. By meeting at the Millinery District Synagogue, in the Garment District, and parading up Fifth Avenue to the party at Haven, they hope to stimulate hat wearing in general, and camaraderie in the industry, in particular.</div>
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The idea of donning a specialty piece and parading through the streets is often met with interest, even in New York. Last year, the New York Times covered the event with splashy photography as the milliners et al proceeded through Bryant Park, up to Rockefeller Center, and around St. Pat's.</div>
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This is the opportunity of the year to wear whatever outrageous gear you have, hat-wise, and have fun. Send in the hats!</div>
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This year, there will be a contest for the best hat, non-milliners only, thank you. Once at Haven, a complimentary Champagne Hour will be from 6-7, with Veuve Cliquot (thank you, Moet Hennessey USA!) and hors d'oeuvres. The latest collections from the milliner members will be on display, for pert posing and purchasing.</div>
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Haven itself is a warm and inviting space, reminiscent of a gentlemen's club from the victorian era, with a mezzanine and a choice seating area for light repast. </div>
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Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-10787340403529397882017-11-19T10:44:00.000-08:002017-11-19T10:52:27.288-08:00Puerto Rico Gets to Work<br />
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Puerto Rico Gets to Work<br />
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Most of you know about the island, and the hurricane, and the aftermath. Perhaps you don't realize that this is a static situation, with very slow growth and progress thanks to a few generalities. Not necessary to get into the politics of the situation on the island and in the hallways of the US Senate, but only with an ongoing effort from all of us "off-island" will there be progress and change.<br />
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Jump back a few decades, to the 19th Century actually, to discover the origins of the US relationship with Puerto Rico. Follow the thread to the post-WWI era, through the 1950's and up to today. Bear in mind that the Jones Act impedes imports, and the US finds ways and means of latching onto contracts that produce income for anyone and everyone except the people of Puerto Rico.<br />
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Millions of us from famous names to high school students feel the hardship and not just because we all have relatives in Puerto Rico who are living through this nightmare. The Puerto Rican people are as they say, resilient, but the island needs all the help we can give it.<br />
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Think of Puerto Rican's as your next door neighbors and find a way to help.<br />
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My Puerto Rican side lives in daily frustration knowing that the island needs help and it isn't arriving fast enough. And it just isn't enough. Some, not all, politicians in the US are making life even more difficult for this little jewel of an island. Reading online will help educate, as to the status quo, so it's not up to me to do that.<br />
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Our job at hand is to help keep Puerto Rico within eye sight. Ellen Christine Couture is designing a capsule collection of hats , headgear and caps to help introduce products that might work for a gift, or just to help keep the topic alive in your circle.<br />
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For the first two items in the collection we've hand-painted a stylized Puerto Rican flag onto cotton canvas, and used it as an applique...sold as a patch that you can sew on yourself, or pre-sewn on our kepi. Not a baseball cap, a kepi is a throwback to the French Legionnaires, and the American Civil War military issue headgear. A bit more stylish that the normal baseball cap. The kepi is made in NYC, in cotton, with fabric donated by James Thompson & Co. an American fabric company established in 1860, and very appropriate for this style cap.<br />
Our production was a limited edition, executed by our guy, Felix, in Long Island City. No more can be produced, as limited runs interrupt the flow in the factory.<br />
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Watch for our next style, and please help Puerto Rico.<br />
Our funds from the sale of these work hats go to: ConPRmetidos and Centros Sor Isolina Ferre, both non-profit organizations that are easily researched on the internet.<br />
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It's just one of the ways we're helping. Build a network within your community or join one of the agencies already reaching out. It feels good, and good is what we're all about, right?<br />
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Just an aside about our picture: our lovely intern, Holly sits with two of our neighbors rescued from Puerto Rico.<br />
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http://www.ellenchristinecouture.com/store/puerto-rico/Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-35860232064859636762017-11-16T13:31:00.000-08:002017-11-16T14:01:48.146-08:00Millinery Bibliography<div style="box-sizing: inherit; font-family: merriweather, serif; margin-bottom: 1.6em;">
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">These are just a few of the books relating to hats on our shelves. We hope that they help inspire and delight your burning need to learn all </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Adele, Campione, Il Cappello Da Uomo, Itinerari D’Immagini, 1988</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Albrizio, Ann, Classic Millinery Techniques, Lark Books, 1998</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Anlezark, Mildred, Hats on Heads: The Art of Creative Millinery, Kangaroo Press, 1990</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Bawden, Juliet, The Hat Book: Creating Hats for Every Occasion, Lark Books, 1993</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Ben-Yusuf, MME. Anna, Edwardian Hats: The Art of Milliners, R.L. Shep, 1992</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Besson, Jean Louis, Le Livre Des Uniformes: Histoire Des Costumes, Gallimard, 1987</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Blum, Dilys E., Ahead of Fashion: Hats of the 20th Century, Philadelphia Museum of Art, 1993</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Bolomier, Elaine, Le Chapeau: Grand Art et Savoir-faire, Musee du Chapeau, 1996</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Bou, Louis, and Stephen Jones. Couture Hats. New York: Harper Design, 2012</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Burke, Emma Maxwell, A Perfect Course in Millinery, The Illustrated Milliner Company, 1925</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Burkel, Archie, The Joy of Hats, Nelson Printing, 2012</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Clark, Fiona, The Costume Accessories Series: Hats, B.T. Batsford Ltd, 1982</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Couldridge, Alan, The Hat Book, Ventura Publishing Ltd, 1980</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Dache, Lilly, Lilly Dache’s Glamour Book, So Stated, 1956</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Demornex, Jacqueline, Le Siecle en Chapeaux, Du May, 1991</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Dreher, Denise, From the Neck Up: An Illustrated Guide to Hatmaking, Madhatter Press, 1981</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Du Mortier, Bianca M., Chapeau, Chapeaux!, Rijksmuseum, 1997</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Feen, Diane, Hat Life, A Mint Publishing Company, 2009</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Genin, J.N., An Illustrated History of the Hat: From the Earliest Ages to the Present, N.P., 1848</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Gorsline, Douglas, What People Wore, Bonanza Books, 1987</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Hopkins, Susie, The Century of Hats, Chartwell Books Inc, 1999</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Jones, Stephen, Hats: An Anthology, V&A Publishing, 2009</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Kamitsis, Lydia, Les Chapeaux: Une Histoire de Tete, Dans Le Droit Fil, 1998</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Kim, Eugenia, Saturday Night Hat, Potter Craft, 2006</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Maroukian, Francine and Sarah Woodruff, The Handbook of Style: Expert Fashion and Beauty Advice, Quirk Books, 2006</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Mercie, Marie, Voyages Autour D’un Chapeau, Ramsay/De Cortanze, 1990</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Probert, Christina, Hats in Vogue, Abbeville, 1981</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Pufpaff, Suzanne, Nineteenth Century Hat Maker’s and Felter’s Manuals, Stony Lonesome Press, 1995</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Reilly, Maureen and Mary Beth Detrich, Women’s Hats of the 20th Century, Schiffer Publishing, 1997</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Remiasz, Stella V., Hats: Design and Construction, Hat Tree Studio, 1986</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Robinson, Fred Miller, The Man in the Bowler Hat, The University of North Carolina Press, 1993</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Schilling, Gigi, Ageless Bride, First Printing, 2007</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Shields, Jody, Hats: A Stylish History and Collector’s Guide, Clarkson Potter/Publishers, 1991</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Shover, Edna Mann, Art in Costume Design, Milton Bradley Company, 1926</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Smith, Desire, HATS: with Values, Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1996</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Smith, Rodney and Leslie Smolan, The Hat Book, Doubleday, 1993</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Steinberg, Neil, Hatless Jack, The Penguin Group, 2004</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Waring, Lyn, Hats Made Easy, Sally Milner Publishing, 1995</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Wilcox, R. Turner, The Mode in Costume, Scribner, 1948</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-size: small; margin-top: 0.1pt;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Women’s Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, Millinery: A Complete Course, Vivs Ribbons & Laces, 1993</span></span><br />
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<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-top: 0.1pt; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">
<div style="margin: 0px; text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 8pt;"><span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Womens Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, Ribbon Trimmings: A Course in Six Parts, Vivs Ribbons and Laces, 1992</span></span></div>
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Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-91066285037808525862017-10-24T14:15:00.002-07:002017-10-28T10:08:49.682-07:00The Art of the Bat<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClPG8Bdz18SWGp1j-sLQv4zGBel_-N_i9Sw_xgYp99u9nYhUSEGrEJE5zzS1M-QpTRNEC-h2TtoYDIqzKVE0fzua1ZGDht0490I7TsCqO7pWoOFGe7lr3dAMia573CM2ABiThz65FySPk/s1600/tinaminnievogue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhClPG8Bdz18SWGp1j-sLQv4zGBel_-N_i9Sw_xgYp99u9nYhUSEGrEJE5zzS1M-QpTRNEC-h2TtoYDIqzKVE0fzua1ZGDht0490I7TsCqO7pWoOFGe7lr3dAMia573CM2ABiThz65FySPk/s400/tinaminnievogue.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">https://www.vogue.com/article/miss-tina-regrets</td></tr>
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As Halloween lifts its head in the world context, costume and horror become part of an everyday ritual for some of us. Make that witch hat, prep those cat ears, reference those vampires.....all part of a millinery studio's to-do list. We see Halloween as a relief from the norm, nowadays. An instant flicker of submerged reality, an escape from our perceived complications. With TV helping us along the way and Comicon now part of some internal lexicon on the plane of popular culture, costumes are often our interpretation of who and what we want to be. Since we were little runabouts in ghostly sheets, preying upon neighbors for our intake of sugar, costumes have grown up. The inspiration for those counter personae now seems rooted in comic books, film, tv spreading wide and far the possibility of becoming anyone or anything, if only for one night.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyJfep0r2Vz4o_vHYFK0GRlQqQcAq1HbALUY4fk6kpMBDDVK7WydQH9m42cPoHlUbPgYyBkgnBYyKuc-TZ68nBE7N2oKwMb9BBd2Uzb9DYitF-AnABtysw4WO0PXnWstBA1LHS6ZNQ1Z7/s1600/fan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyJfep0r2Vz4o_vHYFK0GRlQqQcAq1HbALUY4fk6kpMBDDVK7WydQH9m42cPoHlUbPgYyBkgnBYyKuc-TZ68nBE7N2oKwMb9BBd2Uzb9DYitF-AnABtysw4WO0PXnWstBA1LHS6ZNQ1Z7/s320/fan.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bela Lugosi</td></tr>
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Dracula's bride takes many forms. Space age creatures and heroes, from Groot to Wonder Woman now amble serenely through party or gathering or convention.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyakhCZihbo_sqOqpBWNqF-WhNGeDhzXhJRIHnyoScPzBNl-4c4a2r1xPah65-yXzTDR1KA6bRS3ilIWxeEXZjyi-M3m_vH6d3dSu9HNOSXlYbsNQ_lipfu3pjhIzTpqdB8D9tQwyNGk1/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-10-24+at+4.21.44+PM.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcyakhCZihbo_sqOqpBWNqF-WhNGeDhzXhJRIHnyoScPzBNl-4c4a2r1xPah65-yXzTDR1KA6bRS3ilIWxeEXZjyi-M3m_vH6d3dSu9HNOSXlYbsNQ_lipfu3pjhIzTpqdB8D9tQwyNGk1/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-10-24+at+4.21.44+PM.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Katy Kattelman and the author</td></tr>
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The theory of costume as dress, or dress as costume is fast becoming vernacular. You can own a corset for many occasions, pulling it out of your closet for special affairs, or wearing it under a denim jacket. We did the same in 1980's Rockabilly days with our long-line Merry Widows and crinolines paired with vintage cowgirl boots and motorcycle jackets as substitute for tuxedo and fancy dress. The norm, for some. Costume for others.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFzsffjGFnSawaZcEgr5XnXlLQBvqvEtJHVqIAtRa1VB8f8NZRamczWH_lDHvR9cDrSN_OxH_CB56FK82LcUDUHQ0gcx2J1UXqTARibowTMGkS99w2MT5uJuveK8fwAz648txHdp5Mzm6/s1600/DNOzXnGW0AUOaEH.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNFzsffjGFnSawaZcEgr5XnXlLQBvqvEtJHVqIAtRa1VB8f8NZRamczWH_lDHvR9cDrSN_OxH_CB56FK82LcUDUHQ0gcx2J1UXqTARibowTMGkS99w2MT5uJuveK8fwAz648txHdp5Mzm6/s320/DNOzXnGW0AUOaEH.jpg" width="211" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Claire Fraser, The "Bat Suit " (courtesy of Terry Dresbach)<br />
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Watch your favorite TV show and behold wardrobe transformations take place all over the world. Outlander, and the genius of Terry Dresbach and her crew have made tartan a de rigeur element once again. 18th Century riding habits are translated a la Claire ( female protagonist from Diana Gabaldon's world- shaking series of books and heroine to Jamie on Starz' series now in its 3rd season).<br />
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Bela Lugosi made the cape a required part of anyone's proper Dracula wardrobe, from the 1930's onward, when the film was released. But capes and shrugs and stoles and wraps were a truly necessary element for centuries. It was cold. And so, back to Claire, in Outlander, and her Bat Suit.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgniBlA64mWmBbVALRgY3knKjNAVtuwf-yPxeGcdpc2-KBwDdWMYi74E_vFzvD5sTDZkzlr1nwZQZWG2m6cMgaXj8M1v2c14nslktsdWDmrIE8lVgmv3lwjhobIfnoWQi3h3npsiynqRNsW/s320/f46d60e417a5493cfcee62449e4e8660--cape-coat-s-fashion.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="210" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fashion photography by Henry Clarke, 1960s.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYYZlK-qgIXOmB9zh2hmlJMBEvi34VvRmcUJvIS00hg_EKXLd3q0CKSNc8jLipQuuVILYHvE6Rb-leM6l-0E7rNJU7yrIr1jS5gi-Y-s3d9KH8E4_FCWY5JYmmJUfspYJm4kBjXLlGaAj2/s1600/656f8d876f62a25f9fcd4a13936186f0--holding-company-janis-joplin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYYZlK-qgIXOmB9zh2hmlJMBEvi34VvRmcUJvIS00hg_EKXLd3q0CKSNc8jLipQuuVILYHvE6Rb-leM6l-0E7rNJU7yrIr1jS5gi-Y-s3d9KH8E4_FCWY5JYmmJUfspYJm4kBjXLlGaAj2/s320/656f8d876f62a25f9fcd4a13936186f0--holding-company-janis-joplin.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Janis Joplin</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgniBlA64mWmBbVALRgY3knKjNAVtuwf-yPxeGcdpc2-KBwDdWMYi74E_vFzvD5sTDZkzlr1nwZQZWG2m6cMgaXj8M1v2c14nslktsdWDmrIE8lVgmv3lwjhobIfnoWQi3h3npsiynqRNsW/s1600/f46d60e417a5493cfcee62449e4e8660--cape-coat-s-fashion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>The Bat Suit, a phrase coined by designer Terry Dresbach, and the cape that tops it in the tv series becomes a time-travelling wardrobe for her in one fell swoop. Capes were part of the 1960's-70's dress-up era as we went from modish snow bunnies to Janis Joplin admirers. Capes were worn by women in the fashion plates of editorial Vogue and the hippie granny square rebirth of San Francisco Haight Ashbury streetwear fashion. Capes and ponchos have been part of our culture in facets not always linked to costume. The wearability and protective nature of these garments lend a sense of normalcy to character improvisation.<br />
Claire's cape, as part of an outfit she whipped up (euphemistically) for herself to regress to the 18th Century has to translate from 1960's conservative styles to daily usage in the unsettling daily routines of the 1780's. Cape, as part of her "Bat Suit" lined with pockets, as handbag, kitted out to prevent inquiring minds from wondering if she were a witch. (Watch the series, and read the books for all the witchy references).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNvWyGMG4OrKij1jpu9O4qGXuOJ-RlZ-DgUI192ABZCHwhgONWTNN2T8wJtWqD4tBVCB6ZaDSjFsBLTy86HV0JMz861RGr9fBHteywrbZ5MYkpX_EPIG8q4E5TmLMjQFN_eJEGXRoD86zN/s1600/IMG_7675091626322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNvWyGMG4OrKij1jpu9O4qGXuOJ-RlZ-DgUI192ABZCHwhgONWTNN2T8wJtWqD4tBVCB6ZaDSjFsBLTy86HV0JMz861RGr9fBHteywrbZ5MYkpX_EPIG8q4E5TmLMjQFN_eJEGXRoD86zN/s320/IMG_7675091626322.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yvonne Craig as Batgirl and Burgess Meredith as the Penguin </td></tr>
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The reference is taken from the popular 1960's Adam West/Burt Ward interpretation of Batman. Seen on TV with a slew of Hollywood names as villains, this series brought the cape into our teenage homes. Yvonne Craig played the caped female version of Batgirl, and the image leapt from the pages of our coveted comic books to part of an iconic trail of heroes and heroines. In capes.<br />
Capes lend a note of romance, mystery, and always, a place to stash your thingamajigs. Bela Lugosi didn't need to stash anything, since Dracula could transform at will. But with our modern penchant for carrying the world in our pockets and pocketbooks, a cape allows for hiding, protecting, and serves as a broad brushstroke in style.<br />
Pity Claire doesn't go in for headpieces.<br />
<br />Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-46457096997159486612014-10-31T12:59:00.000-07:002014-10-31T13:46:05.592-07:00The Custom of Costume<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;">The OED ( Oxford English Dictionary) defines “bal masque” in short shrift : “masked ball”, and states as it’s origin : French. The French may very well have brought the art of masquerade to a pinnacle, but costumes are loved the world over. After all, any opera or theatre piece in effect becomes a bal masque, as the actors are all garbed as alter egos. </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">And actually, costume is something we also put on</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">everyday, to go to work, or school. It's the uniform we wear through school, or the shirt and tie we put on every day. But here, we're discussing an extra-ordinary occasion, when a "costume" is a special article of clothing or an ensemble that helps us to change visibly into someone or something else in an instant. Dressing in a c</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">ostume becomes a definitive way of shedding inhibition when it’s cloaked in velvet and sequins. An uber-costume.</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">Choosing a costume sometimes bleeds into the psychological boundaries we place on ourselves in everyday life. Our favorite characters in literature, or popular culture are invoked all around the world once we step into satin breeches or a vampire's mantle. History can play a part in the inspiration of costume, too, as we stream personage famous or infamous before the curious eyes of the beholders. Halloween has become that day when the erstwhile Headless Horseman can roam suburban neighborhoods alongside the likes of Edward Scissorhands, accompanied by his own personal Bride of Dracula. Movies are fodder for ideas, and costume pop-up shops have become as common across the land as mushrooms every Fall. Which character are you? </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;">With the popularization of readymade mass -produced boxed costumes sold at Woolworth’s, the 1950’s were underlined with Roy Rogerses, Lone Rangers, and many a cowboy hero from the then new entertainment called television.</span><br />
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Contemporary horror flicks, vastly popular since Mary Shelley first penned “Frankenstein” , have helped create a crop of home-grown zombies, draculettes, and sundry dead and decaying creatures. But costume is not defined by Halloween alone. Throughout history, in royal court and private manse, the Bal Masque has stood as an outlet for this personification projection in any season. Not limited to one day or one ghost- filled night per year, the Bal Masque lends a theme to a superlative party, to the crowded streets of New Orleans at Mardi Gras time, or the canals of Venice, with their richesse of silks and tricornes.<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;">Comicon is a strolling feast for the eye of the beholder, with fans of subculture, popular culture and mythology dressed to fit the bill. Whether that bill is Dr. Who, Jamie Fraser or The Flash is a simple personal choice of the costume- garbed . Whom do you love? Become that person for a day. Favorite hero? Salve your worries and insecurities in drag, or caped, tiara-d, or masked. Halloween spirit, extended to Silly Putty boundaries. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;">In 1966, when Truman Capote invoked the spirit of long- forgotten party demons and threw his Black and White Ball at the Plaza in New York City, the hoi polloi flocked to mingle with each other, all rich and famous , bedecked in finery .</span><br />
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The Metropolitan Museum Ball every year recreates this same spirit, with celebrities walking a red carpet, in costume or simply fancy dress. The bolder, braver souls take any costume opportunity to the limit, and use their expertise and resources to come up with the perfect evocative ensemble.<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;"> Costume plays an important part in entertainment , with children and adults participating in momentary delusion and just having fun with it all. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;">For those of you who say “I don’t do costumes” : we say: “Why not?”. We already know the answer. Whether it’s your own personal fear that disallows you from wearing a hat, or your own lack of imagination, we can vouch for the fun of dressing up. Becoming that blonde bombshell, or dead diva isn’t really a transformation. It’s simply an extension of what you are inside. And that, as Martha Stewart has been known to say, is a good thing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px; font-stretch: normal;"><u style="color: #042eee;">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masquerade_ball</u></span><br />
<span style="font-stretch: normal;"><span style="color: #042eee; font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><u>http://fashionsmostwanted.blogspot.com/2010/04/truman-capote-and-black-and-white-ball.html</u></span></span>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-72405911448580127232014-10-13T18:26:00.000-07:002017-10-23T06:36:13.354-07:00A Pocket By Any Other NameA Pocket by Any Other Name<br />
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Photograph of the village women (Wauking Women) in Outlander as designed by Terry Drespach<br />
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Watching historically relevant drama on tv might spawn interest in minor details, as well as in the heroic brawny actor on the screen. Take pockets, for example. Watching Starz' sky-rocketing original series Outlander, you might notice the dangly things hanging on the front of the Highlanders' kilts. Those thingies are called "sporrans" and served as pockets for the dashing men in Scottish 18th Century life. Please note that women's clothing isn't always showing little dangly things. Where was she hiding that spare key? or her whatnots? Normally, pockets were something made as an addition to the wardrobe. In the men's case, with kilts not having built-in compartments for carrying much of anything, a sporran acted as the catchall. For ladies, there were pockets. Made as a separate reality, much like the sporran, but usually worn under her skirts. No shoulder bags, no tote bags. Perhaps a basket for marketing, and gathering of herbs and such. Saddlebags, to be sure, because one needed as many places to stash stuff as we do today. But there wasn't as much stuff. So women in the 18th Century developed their own style, as women have a tendancy to do.<br />
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http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/a/history-of-pockets/<br />
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for an overview, academically speaking. Watch in Outlander as Claire puts her hands in what seem to be pockets while she's wearing 18th Century garb. This isn't as odd as it might be, because in this case, the character is coming from another time where pockets, and pocketbooks already exist. So the practical Claire may well have had her garments made with the additon of a pocket or two for convenience' sake. Most women hid their pockets under their petticoats to protect their valuables,<br />
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but we can imagine some of them might work as men wore their sporrans: on the outside of their skirts. In the evolution of fashion, not everything is cut and dried. Since we can only go by what we see in paintings, drawings, and literary references, and cannot time travel to see for ourselves, imagination may take flight and create alternative pockets. This was the 18th Century, and as the 19th Century looms nearer, reticules become the norm. They were just the same idea as the pocket, but carried as a separate item, and therefore tended to be embellished more often than not. Accessories have always been women's fancy, and what would become a major economic status symbol began to become more important visually. Women were still not allowed to actually own anything outright, so the necessity of carrying the massive amounts of paperwork, wallets, etc. that we haul around today simply wasn't there. As sporrans go ( www.kilts.com) , the evolution of style warrants taking note of the refined, yet traditional forms they have taken in contemporary usage. Women's pocketbooks, on the other hand, have become quite another subject indeed.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , "dejavu serif" , serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.9999809265137px;"> ref: Barbara Burman in of "</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , "dejavu serif" , serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.9999809265137px;">Pockets</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "georgia" , "times new roman" , "times" , "dejavu serif" , serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19.9999809265137px;"> of History: The Secret Life of an Everyday Object." </span>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-49950876120835110402014-09-08T10:36:00.002-07:002014-10-26T07:55:46.595-07:00Men in Skirts<div>
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With the Gallic onslaught of Outlander, an involved series of books by the brilliant author Diana Gabaldon, newly produced by Starz, the world is becoming more aware of costume and its history. History that leads us all to delve further, not just into the making of gifs ( Jamie Fraser as the new global heartthrob ), but dipping into Wikipedia, and praise be! even your local library, to find out more. Lead into this world of research via shows like Madmen, Boardwalk Empire and other small screen productions like Downton Abbey, costume becomes so much a part of the story that detail is assimilated subconsciously. Or so those of us enmeshed in costume history would hope. The surge of popularity on sites like Etsy, where handcrafts are being supported and sought after in an accessible marketplace, and the production of historically- oriented story lines help raise the bar for researchers. Oh, sure, not all the details are historically correct, that's a bit of a stretch even for a magician, but the mood and the feel is projected through dynamic set design and and brilliantly executed costume. Inspiration becomes the underlying force here, for fashion and beyond . Fans and admirers may want exact replicas of a Titanic costume, or a Clan MacKenzie kilt, but for fashion, these shows are springboards for a dynamic interplay . And vice versa. In the 1940’s ( and before) cinema-goers longed for Lauren Bacall’s suit, or Roz Russell’s hat. Shop for your favorite heroine/celebrity/character has always been a mainstay of trend. Now we see a resurgence in avarice for all things put up on a screen, and the web helps to popularize obscure fashion details that lend whimsy and fun to a contemporary look.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">Madmen created a vibe in the counterculture vintage clothing world by bringing back the hot , sexy side of 1950’s-60’s fashion, both for men and women. Brooks Brothers ran a collection of suits for the MadMan, and who knows but that Don Draper isn’t part of the reason that the stingy brim fedora has taken such a strong toehold on fashionable heads once again? These styles exert a quiet influence onto the world of fashion in general, as we see a play between runway and street fashion. Designers like Thom Browne and Tom Ford bring a sleek line back into menswear, and tuxedos and dinner jackets may even be showing up more frequently in the wardrobes of not just the rich and famous. Menswear will always reflect a certain constancy, where female fashion tends to lean into the trend wind of the moment. MadMen dames find that curves are big in selfieland and the color green has crept back into our reality. Green hasn’t been so popular since the 1960’s.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">Boardwalk Empire gave birth to more Brooklyn hipsters than other shows, since it’s filmed here in the NYC vicinity, and lends the repro flapper/gangster look to both men and women. Hats and headpieces are de rigueur, whether they be a feather pad glued onto a headband, or a hand beaded headpiece from a couture house. The thin line rules in the 1920’s, with narrow trouser legs, slim short frocks and sleek automobiles. Just come to the intensely popular Jazz Age Lawn Party and see the 5000 plus revelers in present day party mode to see the influence that shows like Boardwalk Empire have created. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">With Outlander, costume designer Terry Drespach has summoned her creative powers to build an entire world not so accessible to flea market and easy finds. Set in 18th Century Scotland, this show celebrates the tonality of the Highlanders’ garb, their wardrobe, their armory, and their milieu in a very believable and successful way. Launched at ComiCon, the Starz series has already snowballed into podcasts, blogs and posts not just in awe of the wonders of Jamie and his kin, but the backstory. The producer and costume designer issue weekly reports on “the making of” each episode. Chanel had already produced its own Highland collection that precedes this show, but watch it to appreciate how fashion and history are symbiotic. The dialogue is fascinating, and for trackers of style and trend, interaction becomes tantamount to a chess game, where the world is a stage indeed.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;">History, not fantasy, becomes the driving force behind shows such as these. Unmentioned are the legion of fans who participate in cosplay , Burning Man, the Renaissance Fairs. Halloween used to be the only dress up time for most of us . Now it’s an also-ran. Celebratory fairs, parties, festivals make Woodstock just the first gathering of like- minded counterculture . With television cable, and film actively fomenting and participating in costume drama, history becomes part of the research. And it will ultimately trickle down into popular fashion. Perhaps not just with more kilts being seen on gentlemen at fancy dress and formal occasions, but in the application of tartan, knitwear, felting and weaving. Handcrafts will abound, and perhaps we will not lose all of ourselves in a pot of glue, finding a fast fix for a quick costume. Perhaps the research will be inspired and build a new fan base for “the making of” in design on a more academic level. What came before, will come after. Fashion provides a lectern upon which we can espouse any theory, and help maintain a culture, a trend, a style, and appreciation for all those involved in the creative process, be it in an haute couture atelier, or in your own studio workroom.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #042eee; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"><u>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boardwalk_Empire</u></span><br />
<span style="color: #042eee; font-family: Arial; font-size: 13px;"><u>http://www.amctv.com/shows/mad-men</u></span><br />
<span style="color: #3b5998; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 14px;">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTHHp75GyrY</span><br />
<span style="color: #042eee; font-family: Arial; font-size: x-small;"><u>http://terrydresbach.com</u></span><br />
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Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-49551569184429220732014-07-21T05:16:00.004-07:002014-07-21T05:17:10.542-07:00Yves Saint Laurent on screen<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Tl5fOcTKvdyUgqY4-XW6HYvIf-nKk0QyYI8o3zzj0I7229s0iVfa49y7WqSYMdbihcdvx3pP8jL1oUgsFpv8Vo-gi2JptUVCZF3XyZMOiBXXkbBMlEiWsRBwmMCApHwjoBRJVXy1EaMB/s1600/pierre-niney-yves-saint-laurent-est-acclame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Tl5fOcTKvdyUgqY4-XW6HYvIf-nKk0QyYI8o3zzj0I7229s0iVfa49y7WqSYMdbihcdvx3pP8jL1oUgsFpv8Vo-gi2JptUVCZF3XyZMOiBXXkbBMlEiWsRBwmMCApHwjoBRJVXy1EaMB/s1600/pierre-niney-yves-saint-laurent-est-acclame.jpg" height="320" width="308" /></a></div>
The Film Forum has seen fit to extend the <span class="itemprop" itemprop="name" style="background-color: white; color: #70579d; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: inherit; text-decoration: none;"><a href="http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0504267/?ref_=tt_ov_dr" itemprop="url" style="background-color: white; color: #70579d; font-family: Verdana, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-decoration: none;">Jalil Lespert</a> </span>movie about Yves Saint Laurent probably because so many of us didn't get around to seeing it. And thank God! Filmed in a luxurious state of mind, about a luxurious young man who became a luxury brand, Yves Saint Laurent comes onto the screen as a visual delight. And. Then. Some. Tracking early YSL through the days of becoming the newly appointed big boss at Christian Dior after the Maestro dies, to the almost end, this film warrants being seen again, and then again. Take it from several points of view: the visuals, the sets, the actors, the direction, and, of course, the costumes. Although they are not really costumes per se, but the entitled inspirational collections of a young man's vision, the clothing offers time and again fresh insights behind the scenes of a designer's life. Not in a tawdry sense, but depicted in a matter of fact life -in -the -trenches way. Drugs, sex, backstory, ego. All of the above do not over ride the reality of this film: Yves Saint Laurent was a genius. And for those in the fashion world, the fact that the quirks come with that title is a given. Perhaps to the newest fans of fashion out there, the hedonistic and indulgent world of the 1970's and 1980's is news. To those who lived the time, the mindset, and the mood, it's a flashback . The lush quality of M. Saint Laurent's thinking process is embellished by placing us within their homes, not just within the confines of the atelier. Pierre Berge, the keeper of the flame (and the other driving character depicted so ably in the film) gave his consultation and stamp of approval, as well as allowing many of the archived original haute couture pieces from the Maison to be featured in the film . Given the white glove treatment, to be sure, it is said that the garments were cast first, followed by the models who filled in the dresses. An uncanny, but logical way of casting some of the iconic models of the era.<br />
The delicate phraseology of the young Saint Laurent is part of his persona. He seemed to look at everything in a telescoped fashion, focused, with subtitles. His business life was managed by Pierre Berge, but those who loved him could not control the uncontrollable. One of the fascinating feats that this film accomplishes underlines the gentle soul that was Yves Saint Laurent. In spite of the whirlwind of fashion , fame and backstory that surrounds a supremely successful man such as himself, his ability to hone in on a point of design is evident. From the first shot of the young man slicing into a bolt of silk and draping it under the watchful gaze of Christian Dior himself, to the luxe collections he produces one after another, the director frames this ability with brilliance. In those moments of calm, found throughout the film here and there, we can commune with the mind of YSL, and pause for one slice of time, before plunging back into the fray.<br />
Color and personae is what this film is all about. If you're a designer, you'll know this world. If you're a design student, see it now. If you're a design teacher, see it to learn more about methodology, atelier activity and results. And for the rest of the world: take it all with a grain of salt, or a teaspoon of sugar. Films of this ilk are much loved in the world of fashion, and will long serve as standard bearers for the rarified world of haute couture .Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-26471269409321425762014-07-19T12:18:00.000-07:002014-07-19T12:25:49.295-07:00Welcome Aboard<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We have a new website with wonderful pictures of our hats taken by brilliant photographers with whom we have been working for eons. Please come and visit, send us your input, as we tweak, update and upgrade the new site so that it works to your advantage. More in tune than ever with the hat-wearing public, Ellen Christine provides unique design, local confection, and unlimited imagination to her public and her product.<br />
The first set of pictures you see on the new website were taken for a local magazine to be distributed in Hudson Square, where we are located. We loved David Carlo's shots so much, they're our new portraits.<br />
We'll include news that will change on a regular basis so you can see all of our exciting projects. Uploaded at the moment is the exclusive headpiece we designed for Va Bien Lingerie, a French/NY/Puerto Rican company that is using the shot of our headpiece with their new collection in their Fall campaign. If you wish to inquire about owning one of these headpieces, ask Va Bien directly for information about them.<br />
You'll see the lovely Sophie Pera, stylist at Town and Country, in a unique take on retail. This video is by Cinematique, and it lits you shop while you watch. Go to the company website for more information, but do watch our video with Sophie in our showroom. We love it, too.<br />
Our collections will expand as our photoshoots progress and we edit the pictures. We've included our favorite campaign, and our shoot by Sandy Ramirez "The Metropolitan Opera Collection" because it's so very beautiful. The shot was inspired by a famous photographer from the 1940's, and we loved doing it. there are beautiful gallery shots taken in some of the collections by our dear Tom Bloom. some of you may know him as a star of stage and screen, but did yo know that he is one of the premier portrait photographers in NYC? He's taken some glorious shots of pieces that merit hanging as art.<br />
Our Press Kit is highlighted on the home page, and further developed on the Press page. Feel free to inquire about any of the hats or headpieces you see on those pages. Although they are not in stock, we are happy to reproduce our own past archival collections for you.<br />
Pass along the site to your friends, and welcome aboard to the scintilatting hat world of Ellen Christine Couture. <br />
<br />
www.ellenchristinecouture.com<br />
Information about the special order headpiece can be addressed to: <a href="mailto:atelier@vabienlingerie.com">atelier@vabienlingerie.com</a>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-48136797222438945402013-08-20T14:41:00.000-07:002013-08-20T14:42:05.055-07:00Dear WWD<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Harper’s Bazaar just gave us our thrill of the year : the cover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sarah Jessica Parker is wearing an
Ellen Christine Couture headpiece on their cover, and it looks glorious.
Naysayers may mock, may dissent, may critique.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But there are thousands, millions wearing hats once
again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Given the Royal Wedding
feeding frenzy, celebrities are not as timid about donning a hat or a headpiece
from time to time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sarah Jessica
Parker was seen at the Metropolitan Museum Gala wearing a Phillip
Treacy headpiece, as she is wont to do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Either our dear Stephen ( Jones) or Mr. Treacy is the choice for high
profile hat handlers, much because of the English influence on the world of
millinery. Those of you in the business know Ellen Christine, and we proudly
join the ranks of editorialized touted hat makers the world over. </div>
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Now that the feather is out of the bag, and Ms. Parker can
be seen with that magnificent masthead spread across our plumage, does the
world sit up and take notice?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yes,
in a way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But WWD, that bastion of
daily fashion waves and trends seems to be put out by the Harper’s Bazaar
cover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thank you, WWD, for
covering Ellen Christine over the years, but give hats a break, please. Not
fair for you to take a one sided view , and that one side being anti-hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At any rate, it’s a headpiece, for
heaven’s sake, and what of it? I take umbrage at your point of view, and my client/friend
base has been as miffed as I am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Please allow me to take a quote from Mrs. Ann Albrizio, the Doyenne
of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the Millinery Department at FIT
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>who said in one of her press
releases :</div>
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“ Women’s Wear Daily” has been calling the total look a suit
complete with the wearing of a hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Also known as the “Snob Set”, it has become a status symbol in the
fashion field today.”</div>
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We don’t have a date on this press release, but as Mrs.
Albrizio was the driving force in millinery during the 1960’s through the 1990’s,
pick a date.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No need to dissect
the quote, but if you liked hats once upon a time, what happened?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>How did you fall out of love with us,
the hard-working milliners of American fashion? </div>
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I won’t belabour the line you poached from a Steven Sondheim
song to end your article<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I won’t slash your
tires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But I will stand as a
strong supporter for the only accessory that can “top it off”: the hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many accessories can compliment an
ensemble, but none but the hat can end the sentence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<a href="http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/deja-view-7088825">http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/deja-view-7088825</a></div>
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Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-38976089990513402392013-06-28T12:06:00.001-07:002013-06-28T12:06:36.411-07:00Summer Newsletter Ellen Christine Couture<div class="page" title="Page 1">
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Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-47911470525848024242013-02-08T11:37:00.003-08:002013-02-08T11:37:38.896-08:00Winter Newsletter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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" /> </div>
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<br />Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-59080175655377694412012-07-24T18:22:00.003-07:002012-07-30T00:45:16.806-07:00Ellen Christine , Rehearsals, Turandot, Roberto, Orange<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sitting on stone bleachers in a Roman amphitheatre. The chorus is rehearsing Act 1 of Turandot, and the pigeons are singing along with them. The stage director leads the children's chorus to center stage, and the music of Puccini permeates the old stones. Piano only. And voices. Voices filling the crevices in the rock. Voices bouncing off the worn stone bleachers, worn smooth by the recurring 8000 people or so who fill the seats year after year, as they have for centuries.<br />
The sun is setting in Orange and the second rehearsal is in full swing. Roberto Alagna sings in half voice, with his family in the front row. We can only imagine the alchemy that is being wrought.<br />
Act I of Turandot opens with a Mandarin singing up, way up high, on the topmost level of the set. Calaf/Roberto hides among the pillars of the courtyard, and the chorus is spread out across the entire stage. The stage director at Choregies, Charles Roubaud, uses the space in a conceptual format, every stone, every inch as part of the environment, to better allow the magic of this extraordinary opera to happen. The inherent grandiosity is conveyed by using the different levels of power, and the height, the majesty of this amphitheatre.<br />
The "hands that speak" are the hands of Michel Plasson, a wizard of a conductor. He is here for the run-through before the orchestra arrives on Sunday. It is Friday, and he seems happy that everyone is so well prepared. The hard working chorus responds to those hands, to his language, and the Wall of Sound begins. Ebb and flow, ecstasy, pain, excitement, fear : all basic human emotions conveyed here via voice, extracted as it were by the very evocative hands of Maestro Plasson.<br />
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In Act II the need for a relief from the tension created by a cold, cruel princess and the effect she has on her kingdom is provided by the Courtiers Ping, Pang and Pong. Their names may sound like characters from a Gilbert and Sullivan operetta, but their vocal arrangements are so harmonious, they provide the presence needed. The audience is now set up for the tender plea of Liu. Drama mounts in the duet between Calaf and the handmaiden, Liu , as the crowd onstage swarms, and the entire scene crescendos: Turandot! On an almost bare stage, with no costumes, the performance evokes all the needed sentiment. When Calaf runs off, we can once again breathe. Roberto's presence onstage is so evocative that we as one , the audience, follow his every move. For the end of act notes, the conductor summons first the chorus, and then the children's chorus. As he tells them how sweetly they are singing, he manages to tweak their performances with just the right point needed to achieve perfection.<br />
Rehearsal continues with a reprisal, as Calaf/Roberto and Ping/Pang/Pong do their thing. Roberto is saying to Maestro Plasson that it will be "little by little", close the the footlights under the hot sun. This is a huge role for Roberto; as they say in French a "prise de role": his debut in this role. Yes, he's sung the music before, but never AS Calaf in the opera itself. He has lots of time onstage, and lots of high notes (les aigues). Mr . Alagna will be working very hard.<br />
Be still my heart!<br />
Oh, gosh, I just got a "Hello, Ellen!" from the stage, as he faces me (on the bleachers) and we have a little exchange about his Twitterfeed today. (He posted a picture of himself, shaving, in one of my hats.) And me, trying to concentrate on the rehearsal!<br />
Back to M. Plasson: watch this man's hands! Ping/Pang/Pong are onstage on top of a set of BIG bookcases/bookshelves. The books on the shelves are storybook size. think of the piano keys at F.A.O.Schwartz for scale.Plasson guides them through their reveries with his will, his cajoling, and his mega-professional attitude.<br />
Now at the top, and along the stage itself, with the chorus, and we are immersed in the court music that Puccini composed for the $54,000 Question Show. The power of their voices in this amphitheatre is something that needs to be experienced in person: the walls resound with magic music.<br />
Calaf/Roberto is 40 feet below the Emperor, who is seated on high, god of the heavens, and he repeats his request to have a shot at the Princess and her game of chance: Filio del Cielo!<br />
Doves fly in and out of their crevices.<br />
Now we have the children singing, as they prepare us for the magnificent presentation of the magnificent and darkPrincess, who deigns to join the Court , encased in her globe. A globe that protects, and defends, pushed by her slaves to center stage. Lise Lystrom begins her aria as the sun is setting over the Theatre Antique. The Princess commands the stage, as the doves call to each other . Now it's time for the triple threat: either Calaf answers her riddles correctly, or he dies. The intricacy of the riddles is surrounded by trickles of music that set both the mood, and her attitude. Puccini was brilliant. As Calaf divines the answers one by one, slaves partially close the globe, her last sacred place. Extracted as it were from her isolation, the Princess makes a measured progression into the real world. The confrontation between the now conquered Princess and the conquering Calaf leads us into the sublime "Nessun Dorma". Just kill me.<br />
Half and hour for a break, and then everyone straggles back in for the rest of the rehearsal. We will be here until midnight.Night time has now fallen, and on the stage, the chorus are choreographed carrying lanterns that seem as firefies in the dark. At last, Nessun Dorma, with Roberto still using only a portion of his golden voice, in a lower register. This will protect his vocal chords and save the killer notes for the performances. There will be three: the full dress and tech rehearsal (la General), and the two performance dates themselves.<br />
What comes next is the death of Liu, in the last piece of music actually written by Puccini himself. He died just after completing this portion, but he left his masterpiece in the capable hands of Toscanini. Maestro Toscanini did have the opera finished for it's first performance in the 1920's. There's as much drama surrounding the creation of the piece as there is in the opera itself, but we won't cover that ground here.<br />
Liu's death is followed by the inevitable: Turandot in Calaf's arms in sweet surrender. Still trepidatious, but won over by Calaf's intelligence, persistence and charm. The final magical notes fill the amphitheatre, the chorus fills the stage once more, and the Emperor holds forth on high. But wait a minute: it's seduction, Roberto-style, in slow motion. Turandot and Calaf circle each other, as Calaf/Roberto gently lifts her hand to his lips. He kisses it. We all sigh. He places her hand on his cheek. We all sigh. He caresses her cheek. We all sigh. And, they fall into each other's arms.<br />
My heart stopped.<br />
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Photos courtesy of Helene JeanneretEllen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-49351687958320941322012-07-20T06:37:00.002-07:002012-07-24T17:17:25.146-07:00Ellen Christine at the Choregies d'OrangeThe Romans came to Orange, France, and decided to build a Theatre. I haven't found out why, as yet, but it's an extraordinary place, where the acoustics hit you like Phil Spector's Wall of Sound. It doesn't matter if you like opera, but it helps.<br />
The Choregies d'Orange are in rehearsals this week for Turandot, with Roberto Alagna and Lise Lindstrom. It's an incredible production, with a vast chorus, all from the South of France. Imagine! This huge stage, with the original architecture behind the performers. The French have put a glass roof over the stage, for historic preservation, but I'm sure it helps the acoustics even more. When Puccini's music is being sung by 100 chorists, the heart stops, the blood chills, the spirit lifts, and you are in Heaven.<br />
Having never been to Orange, I'm enthusiastic, to say the least. More like a kid in a candy store. It's fascinating to be present for all of the rehearsals. The singers are in half-voice most of the time, but even one note that hits you like an arrow between the eyes is enough to get you ready for the production. The veritable smell of the greasepaint, the roar of the crowd, is the bug that bites and keeps you coming back. Maybe it's different when you're backstage most of the time in your line of work, and you get to see the first pieces fall into place. Maybe it's different when you are used to hearing the director yell up and down the theatre. But hey, this is some theatre. To talk to each other, they need walkie-talkies, because the stage is about 100 meters wide. The stage director moves the crowd around, placing them in their precise positions every 5 minutes. The sound and the lights are up behind us, in the arc of the stone seats. a friend of mine told me that the plebians had straw-filled cushions to sit on, and the VIPS had cushions and retractable domes, to protect them from the sun and the wind. Rehearsals are until midnight, so the wind is capable of whipping through the stadium, as the birds fly in and out of their nests. Lodged high in the stone walls, the birds fly almost on cue, sometimes in a flock, sometimes one or two little wings beating their way home.<br />
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With everyone in place, and the stage director happy, the chorus lances into the last act. Get a copy of Pavarotti singing the role of Calaf, and you will have the touchstone performance. Those of us who live for the golden tones of Roberto Alagna can't wait for the sacred moment of Nessun Dorma. For this note, have I flown 3000 miles. For this opera I have traveled this distance, to hear those incredible tones in this incredible place. This is opera.Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-20682307874680604462012-06-02T05:44:00.002-07:002012-06-02T05:44:41.918-07:00Ellen- Christine Keeps New York in Hats<div>
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Find us all over New York in the month of June, from our studio/showroom in Lower Manhattan, to the Hudson Valley, in Dutchess County. We aim to keep the heads of New Yorkers covered, for fashion's sake.<br />
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There's a wonderful venue in Dutchess County called "Elegant Events Hudson Valley", in a romantic setting : Courtland Manor". Karen Villanova has been eventing in the Bridal industry for 35 years, and knows her market. By invitation only, select vendors will provide a day of consulting for brides from all ver the Tri-State market. If you've logged into their page on Facebook (or ours), you've seen the overview. Jane Wilson Marquis and her inspiring gowns will be there, and so will we.</div>
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Next week, Purely Patricia presents her first "Artist Collective", in the West Village. Ellen Christine is one of the core group of these highly talented people. We are mounting the first show on Wednesday, with a follow-up on Saturday. Please feel free to come and see some extraordinary art-in-fashion, textile art, and beautifully crafted jewelry. This is a alternative shopping experience , and we hope to revive the Salon atmosphere of shopping as it used to be. </div>
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http://ymlp.com/zIlEDu, the link to our newsletter</div>
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<br /></div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-69384206697172378712012-04-18T11:11:00.007-07:002012-04-18T11:42:31.030-07:00Guide to Ellen Christine Couture Millinery<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09a1FBGAjT_qRlaRHV5Bhwo0WmgCL3Xj97Wt-EfUkPZCx8ipcuvMaMBcCngMjtYWnOZ-JgIjOKoHToHbzGE0VJ9eR2-WoiA4hj4-Taok72gTePNQdz9ZXd89zaRvtAsvYJYT_Tafqjbly/s1600/461045_10150566728593341_594988340_8958648_17878148_o.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 192px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg09a1FBGAjT_qRlaRHV5Bhwo0WmgCL3Xj97Wt-EfUkPZCx8ipcuvMaMBcCngMjtYWnOZ-JgIjOKoHToHbzGE0VJ9eR2-WoiA4hj4-Taok72gTePNQdz9ZXd89zaRvtAsvYJYT_Tafqjbly/s320/461045_10150566728593341_594988340_8958648_17878148_o.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5732812437811354834" /></a><br />We're deep in the heart of racing season. Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones has just closed in the Manhattan location at The Bard Graduate Center. Brides are descending upon us like so many hummingbirds. We've just begun online S/S 2012 on several new sites. Our customer base is expanding. Our inhouse custom appointments are multiplying. Strawbery Banke Museum is awaiting it's opening, with one of our pieces in the exhibit this summer. Right! did I mention racing season????<div>I'm sure I'll remember something else, but for now, that's the overview. And here's the breakdown:</div><div><br /></div><div>To add one of our pieces to your hat collection, we've now made it easier for aficionados. We're on the Metropolitan Opera Shop site with a beautiful capsule collection inspired by their opera productions. Our favorite this week is the Manon (the Big White Hat), inspired by the glorious piece that the Met's costume shop/millinery studio, headed by Janet Linville, designed. What a way to open up the spring season at Lincoln Center!</div><div><br /></div><div>Hatagories, an online access shopping site that is a branch of My Fair Lady, a hat concern in NJ, has just added Ellen Christine to it's roster of hat stars. We're so happy, and as soon as the images were live, one of our little "Gigi" doll's hats sold. Another of the Gigis is on the Met site, too, in natural parasisal, with a nod, of course, to Manon. And the extraordinary voice of Anna Nebtrenko.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our friend, Geoffrey, an intrepid hat designer, developer, merchandiser et al, has opened a page for designers on his site , too. But on here, as we have our own point of view, we have chosen to offer our more fashion forward pieces. Whereas when we're collaborating with a merchandiser, they tend to choose pieces suited to their audience. We have no qualms about showing off, so Geoffrey has given us that platform!</div><div><br /></div><div>Our own EllenChristine.com site is an ongoing archival record of our classics. Still offered at our original prices, and custom designed and made, these hats tell a story of our evolution, and demonstrate just a few possibilities for hat loving customers . Keep an eye out for this site to begin it's own evolution, as we begin to implement changes. And oh, yes, the prices will be different, so you might want to take advantage now. </div><div><br /></div><div>Custom appointments are accommodated as we have space. In New York City, that means who can we squeeze in, because, as always, there are way too many last minute desperados out there. We like to work with our brides in a calm, creative manner, and so the more time available, the happier we'll be. For the Kentucky Derby, and Derby parties, I'm sure we can find something, even the day before, because we always have a great selection of hats suitable for an over-the-top event.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our Spring/Summer activities include trunk shows, hat parties, High Teas, and a trek to new Hampshire, for the Passion for Fashion Gala, at the aforementioned Strawbery Banke Museum. Catch up with us before July, when we're off to France for inspiration and opera! It's a fully packed 2 months, and we're so ready!</div><div>Hats on, everybody!</div><div><br /></div><div>www.metoperashop.org</div><div>www.hatagories.com</div><div>www.thatwayhat.com</div><div>www.ellenchristine.com</div><div>www.strawberybanke.org</div><div><br /></div><div>Don't forget about Facebook (Ellen Christine Couture) and Twitter (@ellenchristine), where we update constantly. </div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-85700015997621618472012-02-07T23:51:00.000-08:002012-02-08T00:18:18.640-08:00Still September<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0jUpp_4v7fvnuZjnVUmd7_CJNYLOD3VuH2rsG15q7xSKg5XPhbLlDg4OlJK-TxjEiC-eT_ZTUavSRigb9f3CeIwmq07RaZAu6V_5iHZukZbEguB7PC8maEVVoNsuF1KCXZPwwdd04Zi2/s1600/318907_250599071650578_143195805724239_732448_484798492_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI0jUpp_4v7fvnuZjnVUmd7_CJNYLOD3VuH2rsG15q7xSKg5XPhbLlDg4OlJK-TxjEiC-eT_ZTUavSRigb9f3CeIwmq07RaZAu6V_5iHZukZbEguB7PC8maEVVoNsuF1KCXZPwwdd04Zi2/s320/318907_250599071650578_143195805724239_732448_484798492_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5706675432442785970" /></a><br />Well, let's pretend, shall we? It's Fashion Week, for Spring 2011, and it's the opening night party for The Bard Graduate Center show, Hats: an Anthology by Stephen Jones. It's also the night that Malan Breton is showing at Lincoln Center, runway, and guess who agreed to do the hats? So, we have to be at two places at once. As usual.<div>The Stephen Jones group will more than understand if I skip out early for the show at Mercedez-Benz Fashion Week. Stephen Jones IS runway in Paris and London, with more and more shows in New York, as well. So we won't be rude, since there's so very many people who want to schmooze with him. Time enough to introduce myself in person, sneak in a quick picture with our God of Hats, and dash to the tents. </div><div>Malan Breton is the darling of the media. He is a graduate cum laude from Project Runway, and somehow manages to get the spotlight on himself , produce a runway show, and survive, season after season. Not an easy thing. We've always been honored to participate in his shows, and this will be our third or fourth season with him. </div><div>For this Tour de Force, it's "Fantome": always musically oriented, always celeb attended, always press , press and more press. There have been seasons when Alex McCord, sans handsome hub, Simon VanKempen (he sat it out in the audience), walked the runway for Malan. And seasons when ballerinas were the focal point. Or string orchestras. Malan always brings it. With our history together, its not hard to hone in on what he likes for a look. In preparing for FW, for those of you who have never been subjected to this blitz, you make yourself available for spontaneous meeting with the designer, and his stylists. You pray for model headsizes. Hope for materials. Angst for magic extra time to appear before curtain. Did I say "pray", oh, yes, pray.</div><div>Backstage, for my second time that day (I had to oversee the delivery of the hats in person), and checking the outfits, sequence, drape, fit. Where's that box? Why are some of the hats missing? where's that box again? Get out of the way for the interns to do their last minute pressing, steaming, accessorizing. And get those hats out on the racks. Each ensemble is hung with care on a rack, with all of the accessories listed per outfit. Each outfit has a dresser, and that person is key. They control getting the model into the next outfit, and keep watch over the accessories. Can you imagine backstage? It's so much fun! Energy, vibe, excitement, and nerves, in the make-up room and beyond. Love being backstage. Backstage is why I do what I do. I woke up one morning and realized it wasn't the boy I missed (it had been a terribly dreadful break-up with a drummer), but the "smell of the greasepaint, the roar of the crowd"! Oh, to find your place in life. It's such an exhilarating moment. Eureka, I'm home, so to speak.</div><div>Back to Malan: dressing the models in their outfits, and overseeing the placement of the hats, last minute changes (a certain recording star won't be walking since her limo can't get here in time) . In short, organized chaos.</div><div>And then the show. Well, as it happens, Malan manages to get the jump on this season's hottest trend: transparency. How I did hats in the same vein is always a mystery of the gods. But it happens sometime, that you just nail it.</div><div>So this is the hat that launched more than a few shoots in editorials, and ideas for other collections. As seen here, in Sandy Ramirez' ingenious beauty shot, in Malan Breton's S/S 2011 runway show.</div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-8846183776753816862012-02-04T15:36:00.000-08:002012-02-04T16:03:59.894-08:00Back to September 2011<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfNIOaGykGw5s_wq8OzfXGRorZHIKWFAqlKO6VN7Q5gQcGXxLr4YXz8nGtnKCwl0sLgt-6g1eW2UaLb3gKSau2q3wHKolW2SW3oryRlYjFx0LNheJp1cILmrSy6sYLcU9UFUyWnLAYJb-P/s1600/313221_2460470278141_1443699627_32881423_154569298_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 214px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfNIOaGykGw5s_wq8OzfXGRorZHIKWFAqlKO6VN7Q5gQcGXxLr4YXz8nGtnKCwl0sLgt-6g1eW2UaLb3gKSau2q3wHKolW2SW3oryRlYjFx0LNheJp1cILmrSy6sYLcU9UFUyWnLAYJb-P/s320/313221_2460470278141_1443699627_32881423_154569298_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705435307139592562" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChX_YuI8ylVbaxqoTJaCAcYrgKFL4Lf2P2axjqiXKEiWsf27PrhyphenhyphenH_pz2OlBmImvnHceoBDYyQlQGbEi3ihMHqSLoiV428oMHYn7Qda2F2lm9lLO_GRHwRpxWDCpVo3iJF3SLzqFG6ns3/s1600/294845_10150318567668861_619993860_8238577_188077004_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 186px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChX_YuI8ylVbaxqoTJaCAcYrgKFL4Lf2P2axjqiXKEiWsf27PrhyphenhyphenH_pz2OlBmImvnHceoBDYyQlQGbEi3ihMHqSLoiV428oMHYn7Qda2F2lm9lLO_GRHwRpxWDCpVo3iJF3SLzqFG6ns3/s320/294845_10150318567668861_619993860_8238577_188077004_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705435193828539522" /></a><br />Seems like a million miles away, last September. Last September the show: "Hats: an Anthology by Stephen Jones" opened at the Bard Graduate Center. Wotta show it is. Still going on through April 15, so if you haven't seen it, please take advantage of having this wondrous installation still here in NYC.<div>A Prelude. </div><div>Much to my surprise, I got a PM on FB from Rod Keenan. Those of us in the industry/metier who are in NYC certainly have come across Rod or his hats at some point. I was luck to be on a panel with a friend of his a while ago, and that, I believe, was our first meeting. the message from Mr. Keenan said something like: I've recommended you for the show (oh, yes, I knew which show he meant), so expect to receive a phone call or an email shortly. From the curator. As it turned out, shortly was enough of a lapse for me to have let it sit on a back burner. But lo and behold, one Saturday morning, as I was in the studio early, and alone, the phone rang. "Hello, Stephen Jones here."</div><div>Pause.</div><div>WTF, as they say in the street. We all get wacky phone calls, but this one took the cake.</div><div>"Hello" again.</div><div>"Stephen Jones calling."</div><div>Well , with that I just had to say something. And what should come out of my mouth but a typical Ellen-ism: "Get the ef out of here!" No, I'm not kidding. I thought it was one of the wacky stylists I work with kidding me. But no, it was truly Mr. Jones, and he wanted a hat from me for his show. "Only one?" says she, as realistically as ever. "Yes, just one. Difficult, I know, but one that would be totally you."</div><div>Well, what a gig. How to dream up just one hat? Oh, the conversation was a tad longer, but the gist was that I would design a few things and send them to Oriole Cullen, the curator. And then we'd see. Because I'm well known for my 1920's pieces, and beadwork, I thought one of the piece would have to be a cloche. And to torture my entire crew, we'd bead it completely in different beads from our archival collection. And the other piece would be one of my feather dusters. Headpieces, that is, plumed, birded, in flight. </div><div>As it happened, Mr. Jones himself decided on the beaded cloche, when it was only partially completed. Oriole and Mr. Jones loved the prep work we had done on the cloche, that would be named "La Marianne", and decided to add it half-finished to the show. But, oops, but the time that message reached me, we had completed the beadwork on the rest of the piece. And so, it's covered in every bead I loved from the 1920's, or earlier.</div><div>Our concept:</div><div>As a modern day "flapper", more like an independent modern young lady, this customer lives well in the future, and has a yen for drama. think of it as a cross between the Great Gatsby, The French Revolution, and Mad Max. Some of the beads are from the early part of the 20th Century, made in Czechoslovakia, as most good glass beads were, and coated with an irridescent finish. Bits of broken jewelry and Swarovski crystals cut a swath across the crown of the headpiece, as a sort of dynamic tiara. Look closely and you will see a dress clip from the 1930's, and bits of neckaces from the 1950's in there , too. We love our found /recycled/repurposed art at Ellen Christine.</div><div>Please say hello to our headpiece when you're at the Bard, and say "Thank you" to Stephen Jones and the Victoria and Albert Museum for making it all happen.</div><div><br /></div><div>The photograph of the lovely Faye Brandt wearing La Marianne was taken by Sandy Ramirez.</div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-33821895433891944282012-02-04T15:14:00.000-08:002012-02-04T15:25:44.203-08:00Something for The New Year<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7w6i_Yr2zIpX2BGMcZfeA6yMKQfmm6pfatSaizTlaHrRH0pz5JwF8FdzJTpr1HxHElJ16tQmR4FPWeJv6TGhnnIpkrMPoAkK6UGADx1WH_x85N6pPiOSgvXCuZSBgyTuchHFtrnpIi0w/s1600/394521_2983867402742_1443699627_33182753_1991832550_n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 248px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN7w6i_Yr2zIpX2BGMcZfeA6yMKQfmm6pfatSaizTlaHrRH0pz5JwF8FdzJTpr1HxHElJ16tQmR4FPWeJv6TGhnnIpkrMPoAkK6UGADx1WH_x85N6pPiOSgvXCuZSBgyTuchHFtrnpIi0w/s320/394521_2983867402742_1443699627_33182753_1991832550_n.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705425690400097458" /></a><br />Who can remember just when Will from W Magazine asked me to make this hat? This vinyl hat has been part of our collection for ages...since we work on Spring so far in advance. this particular hat, not that you can tell from this beautifully stylized picture, is transparent. Transparency was the lead story for this Spring, so I guess you could say that because of Will and his directives, we were ahead of the game. Way ahead. And what an adventure this little hat has had. It lived at W for a while, and somehow wound up requested by Lady Gaga's stylist for an appearance. The run at W didn't get used, and Gaga didn't wear it, but we did it again for Malan Breton's runway show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. Along with the rest of the collection we designed for him, again, transparency was the theme.<div>Back again in the studio, but only for a visit, because Edward Enninful requested it for another story he was preparing for W . This time, with a nod to Erte, as shot by Nick Knight, the hat finally ran!</div><div>And here it is: conceptual, and how incredible is this composition? Edward used it as an idea, and sometimes hats are just that: just an idea. Without imposing itself into the shot, this hat became a halo of light around the model's head. In the photographer's capable hands, a hat made of vinyl became part of an Art piece. </div><div>Now, it's once again at W, and we'll see what happens next. Thank you, Will, for the original push, and Edward Enninful for the concept, and Nick Knight for the interpretation.</div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5303493242640878599.post-36068393144328256252012-01-07T00:44:00.001-08:002012-01-07T01:15:49.542-08:00the Metropolitan Opera Shop<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPpo1KFpHvO0F8TuYZQ4ZSL8_BCkchwoSUgkVLWgVr5zffBR-0GUHliFS5eckWT2Xp1H1MkwY8tV2ANLCQyL6-U-s0Y6rUBqYcDiZ95JZPE9jYxwhjz7P4ki84qxpBza0hJ6hWW5nOjZg/s1600/e577dab6-77ce-4ee6-be39-444c27ac324d_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 265px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipPpo1KFpHvO0F8TuYZQ4ZSL8_BCkchwoSUgkVLWgVr5zffBR-0GUHliFS5eckWT2Xp1H1MkwY8tV2ANLCQyL6-U-s0Y6rUBqYcDiZ95JZPE9jYxwhjz7P4ki84qxpBza0hJ6hWW5nOjZg/s320/e577dab6-77ce-4ee6-be39-444c27ac324d_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694814823123828994" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoeOxzEb9q-cSpnmTshy6qJPjoDZ_Ru07ZULpZGxaAZKGYPlIAXksIdqj70IhyYKZFxy6Doql7wndtcNL-F5TiMMsjK1ZrcxdQY7f0BlBe7risT2LnmVrv9VoMWTd5vvfR5PJ56EqbdJu/s1600/safe_image-1.php.jpeg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 90px; height: 90px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoeOxzEb9q-cSpnmTshy6qJPjoDZ_Ru07ZULpZGxaAZKGYPlIAXksIdqj70IhyYKZFxy6Doql7wndtcNL-F5TiMMsjK1ZrcxdQY7f0BlBe7risT2LnmVrv9VoMWTd5vvfR5PJ56EqbdJu/s320/safe_image-1.php.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694814691459888706" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhXBPtcSTTvn0jRVttz5QLgZwwsKvsiDMzGJiMSLdSHaxYCjnSLL9W8sq1vf_vfzgOcmo6qMyHg-4N1mTwEzjSxBlkhs8ZCVpzKnKyGJ43PNQZwktrjfNJ2fivGR6W3q14naAwRFyReVR1/s1600/6a174f6a-ccb5-4cd0-be4f-0f6de824a800_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 265px; height: 265px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhXBPtcSTTvn0jRVttz5QLgZwwsKvsiDMzGJiMSLdSHaxYCjnSLL9W8sq1vf_vfzgOcmo6qMyHg-4N1mTwEzjSxBlkhs8ZCVpzKnKyGJ43PNQZwktrjfNJ2fivGR6W3q14naAwRFyReVR1/s320/6a174f6a-ccb5-4cd0-be4f-0f6de824a800_1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5694814546706774402" /></a><br />In October, we went live with the collection we did for The Metropolitan Opera shop , inspired by the season's production of The Enchanted Island. While the costumes of "Enchanted Island" are fantasy, period, lush, exotic, they beg to be worn! Costumes have always appealed to my inner design self, so this would be a difficult task, to design something that could be worn by a "civilian", and yet carry echoes of this magnificent baroque production. Feathers were the solution: use the feather theme that is displayed in Sycorax' hat, in her hair, on her cloak. Add a great common ground with a lush creamy velour felt, and you have our hats. We did a basic cloche, because it's a great shape for many, many faces. With a hand -blocked brim and crown, here in our studio, this cloche assumes many personae. The block itself is from the 1920's, so that it gives a full, oval shape. Oval, as opposed to the round shape found in most hats on the market today. Oval because the head is oval, and rarely round. This is one of my favorite blocks, and it has been in my collection for decades. We have one client who it works for in every hat we design for her, so we fondly call it by her name. But that little tidbit is in-house, I'm afraid. I chose shades of camel and taupe, because Sycoraz goes from a swamp/jungle existence, all grey and monochromatic, to emerge as a Phoenix in glorious browns and golds. Taupe is my preferred "non-couleur", and works from a sophisticated point of view, to a work-a-day frame that pairs with black, khaki, navy, brown, greens and winter whites. The trim on the cloche is a captured exotic animal, like the creatures on The Enchanted Island: a bit of a bird, a petal of silk in leopard, a vintage button in buffalo horn. Not too much, just a hint of the glory that lies within.<div>For the "Pamela" Biba, we hand-blocked a face-framing shape that would work for Sunday best, or Tuesday on the town, going to luncheon, on a shopping spree. The Biba is so named because of a particularly inventive shop in London from the 1970's, where free-wheeling fashion made it's home. We've loved the spirit of Biba for inspiration, and we do this hat as a classic in all seasons. Wrapped around the sloping crown, is a wonderful vintage velvet ribbon that we have in our archival collection of trims. It's a really rich , deep brown, and works as a foil for the hand-curled pheasant feather. The pheasant feather is prominent in the wardrobe/headwear of Sycorax in this production, so it was a natural choice. Held onto the hat with delicate stitches, the feather seems to want to take flight!</div><div>And finally, to round out this capsule collection, a fascinator. After the Royal Wedding in the Spring, America has taken note of this little shape, so often seen at weddings throughout Europe. Our hand-blocked teardrop shape is one of our most popular , and the trim is a coalition of vintage bits and bobs from our archives. With the pheasant feather as the focal point, and a wayward gold threaded butterfly captured in the mix, the velour based hat is a whimsical composition. Picking up on the Steampunk aspects of the set and costume design in this Pastiche, we added a bit of gilt chain, and some antique buttons, and of course, some Victorian trim. Because the trim is all unique, each hat we sell is an original composition, quite one of a kind.</div><div>There are always surprises in the collections we do for The Met Opera Shop. It's a constant source of inspiration, and delight.</div><div><br /></div><div>Come to the MetOperashop site, and see for yourselves. Ellen Christine hats are available, and sometimes, we sneak in different productions, as we create!</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(128, 128, 128); line-height: 14px; font-family:'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;font-size:11px;"><div class="uiAttachmentTitle" ft="{"type":11}" style="word-break: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); "><strong><a href="http://www.metoperashop.org/Hats/Enchanted-Island-Cloche-Ellen-Christine-Millinery/1000008331.aspx" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" style="cursor: pointer; color: rgb(59, 89, 152); text-decoration: none; ">Met Opera Shop | Opera Hats and Opera Hair Accessories | Enchanted Island Cloche by Ellen Christine.</a></strong></div><span class="caption"><a href="http://www.metoperashop.org/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow nofollow" style="cursor: pointer; color: rgb(59, 89, 152); text-decoration: none; ">www.metoperashop.org</a></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(128, 128, 128); line-height: 14px; font-family:'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;font-size:11px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(128, 128, 128); line-height: 14px; font-family:'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;font-size:11px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style=" color: rgb(128, 128, 128); line-height: 14px; font-family:'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;font-size:11px;">All pictures of our hats above are by Tom Bloom, photographer extraordinaire.</span></div>Ellen Christine Couture http://www.blogger.com/profile/14868338835150315187noreply@blogger.com0